I am a person who believes in second chances. You can ask my dear friend, Phil (hi, friend!).
And when it comes to cities that I didn’t like the first time around, I’ll always willing to make another trip. So many of my travels could have been spoiled by rain, strikes, food poisoning and culture shock, but some cities and I are just not amigos, even after multiple visits.
Barcelona is one of those cities. Three second chances later, and it’s still not grown on me.
In all fairness, I love the whimsical architecture, the Mercè festival, the oceanfront. But the positive aspects seem to end there.
I find Barcelona too busy, too big, too expensive and not well-lit. It’s not friendly in the same way that Valencia is (another Spanish city I could take or leave), nor did I ever stop feeling like a tourist. Having my family with me was stressful as I repeated, “No, Mom, I can’t read it; it’s in Catalan and I don’t speak Catalan,” or tried to ask directions, only to find the person I’d asked spoke no English or Spanish. Apart from the sites I like, such as Parc Güell or the Gràcia neighborhood, I felt like I wasn’t really savoring a second chance in a city – and I swear I tried!
I hear loads about the cuisine, but being based in El Born, couldn’t find much that wasn’t chain pintxos and tapas, or menus riddled with poorly translated English – always a sign the service and prices will suck. What’s more, I come from a family of picky eaters. We had pizza, two consecutive meals at a pintxos bar and burgers.
And what is with not a single place being open for coffee before 9am, save Starbucks?! Even the 24-hour McDonalds wasn’t open when we left early one morning for the Pyrenees!
I’m also not into the Catalan ‘tude. Spearheaded by Artur Mas, a campaign for Catalonian independence has transformed the city into an alien landscape of sorts, which independence flags hanging from balconies, disturbing images of the rest of Spain and its people and Mossos, the Catalan version of a cop, all over the place. Mas was in a meeting in Palau Sant Jordi near our apartment, and the Mossos only let me pass when I told them I was American and didn’t care much for politics. The kicker? They want to be recognized as an EU sovereign state but still stay in the BBVA Spanish soccer league?
I also had to laugh when our host called to ask us how the trip was going. Considering we’d invariably come during three back-to-back holidays, I told him we’d had to escape the country on the whole and go to Andorra. Qué lujo, he responded, and I told him about my plan to travel to 30 countries before 30. His response? That Cataluña is another country, even though it’s illegal to secede from Spain.
What is great about Barcelona is its proximity to the Pyrenees, Girona and Costa Brava. Navigating through my cell phone, we took quick breaks to Andorra, Girona, Besalu and Monstserrat. Getting out of the city meant having my head cleared and experiencing a part of the country whose tourism is highly developed and thriving. Returning, I tried to see Barcelona a bit differently, but I just ended up pouting like a three-year-old when I had to pay more than 1,20€ for a beer and use my cell phone as a flashlight for opening the door to our place in El Born.
Have you ever given a city a second chance? Were your thoughts swayed? Is there a destination you’re not keen on returning to? Watch for the response to this post from Aga, part of the traveling duo of Aga Nuno Somewhere. She’s a big Barcino fan and is chomping at the bit to give her thoughts on the city!
About Sunshine and Siestas
I wish I would have known you when you came! I could maybe have changed your mind
I live in Gracia near Parque Guell and I agree – its one of my favorite parts of Barcelona. But as a poor college student (without a job!), by necessity I´ve found some of the best places to eat and drink for the lowest possible prices.
And there are a LOT of friendly people, but its the international students moreso than the natives. Personally, I find Catalonia independence to be an interesting topic of conversation to bring up because all the natives have a different opinion on it.
And as far as the hustle and bustle of city life, its true. I´ve never lived in a city before, so its a new experience for me and not one I could have prepared myself for. I do like the change, but I know I couldn´t live here for an extended amount of time.
If you ever come back (while I´m here), let me know and I´ll show you what I love about it
Hi, M! I was in Barcelona over the Christmas holidays, and it was my fourth time there. I adore Gracia and El Born, as well as a few of the sites, but the encanto ends there. After having studied in Castilla and traveled around Spain, Barcelona felt so different. Even being from Chicago and loving cities, I found myself struggling to keep up with the pace.
Let me know if you make it down to Seville!
You are not the only one. I dont like Barcelona either
I’m surprised by all of the less-than-like opinions I’ve gotten about BCN since I published! I’m sure the city has its charms, but I prefer the Old World Spain, like in Castilla and Andalusia, and consider the North to be sorely missed on top places to visit. Thanks for commenting, Kate!
It feel so good to know someone else feels this way! Seems everyone loves Barcelona and I’ll admit that I had a good time when I visited, but it falls somewhere between not Spanish enough for me and not European enough either, and far too tourist trappy. I much prefer Madrid and secretly judge people who like Barcelona more!
p.s. I just found your blog and am loving it! I live just a little south of you in El Puerto de Santa Maria – another guiri in Spain!
Hey, M! Thanks for stopping by! I think your comment about BCN is dead-on. I’m not huge on Madrid (corazon de andaluza!!), but prefer it, hands down!
Do you read Spanish Sabores? The girl who runs it, Lauren, married someone from El Puerto! We were there a few years ago for the Feria, which was loads of fun. Let me know if you’re ever up this way!
You must be just too in love with the rest of Spain
I’ve been to Barcelona twice, and loved it, but I also haven’t visited anywhere else in the country, so I can’t compare it to the cultures, lifestyle, food, etc of the rest of Spain!
Alex @ ifs ands & butts recently posted..t-rex tuesday (and a GIVEAWAY).
That’s just the point, that most people think Barcelona IS Spain! Given their history, they were a separate kingdom until modern Spain was formed, and believe they’ve been oppressed because of it. I think that it’s a city worth visiting for a tourist, but it shouldn’t end there.
Hey Cat! I think Barcelona is awesome. I must have gotten really lucky when I’ve gone, but I didn’t find it too expensive at all – on the contrary, I found it full of cheap and free things to do. The first time I went was with a high school tour group, and it was my first time out of the country, so I was charmed even though we saw a lot of the major sites Parc Guell, etc, really quickly. The second time I went, it was the summer, and my friend and I managed to stumble upon a free entry day at the Picasso museum, which was really interesting. Then, after a walk along Las Ramblas, we came upon a random band playing music on the grass near the beach so we stayed and watched that with a bunch of families and other people. The lights show at the big fountain (can’t remember the name!) was also really awesome and free. We did eat a lot of cheap doner kebab – we even had money to splurge at Valor! I will say the hotel we stayed at was suuper sketchy. The last time I went was for the Barcelona marathon last March, so we spent most of the time around the convention center and the food market, but we stayed at one of the nicest hostels I’ve been in, and the marathon was much more inexpensive than ones in the US but incredibly well organized. We also met up with some old friends and my old roommate, so that helped too. The people were also really nice and cheered for us along the marathon path.
I’ve always felt that Barcelona is a fairly low-key tourist destination, and I think the people watching is one of its best parts. Anyway, like I said, I probably got lucky when I went, but I’m sure that’s true of most travel experiences. I loved London, but was meh on Paris.
Hope you’re doing well!
Travel serendipity, si senor! I think that Barcelona probably has a lot of great things to offer (forthcoming post about what I do like about it, as well as what I don’t like about living in Seville!), but my bad luck has befallen me the four times I’ve been! I’ve experienced it with friends, couchsurfing, with my adventurous grandma during the Merce and wth my parents. I expected each trip to be different, and it never was. I think it’s a city that just never lived up to my expectations. You’ve traveled with me and are probably clued into my travel style! Hope you’re well, guapa!
My friends in Madrid will like your candid post.They have voiced similar concerns about Barcelona and, of course, the tension over independence doesn’t help.
My visits to Spain have been to Madrid and the surrounding areas of Segovia, Pedraza, Toleda, Avila and El Escorial. Barcelona is still on my list of places and I’d like to experience it at least once. I’m very interested in taking some of the side trips you mentioned.
Thanks for your post. I’m sure it will generate spirited comments.
Geri
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Geri, do get to Barcelona. I think that, in order to understand Spain’s history and current turmoil, it’s absolutely necessary. Look for the forthcoming side trips post, and thanks for stopping by!
I feel you, I am not the biggest fan of Barcelona either
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You know that Logrono handed me a big fat FU and I could look past that!
I actually really liked Barcelona. It was the first place I visited in Spain though so I didn´t already have any other cities around the country to compare it to.
I´ve never given a city a second chance either… I really can´t imagine changing my mind about a city I didn´t like in the first place and life´s too short to spend time on that!
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I can understand that! I’ve lived in three cities in Spain, so I looked at Barcelona through different eyes this time around. I asked myself if I could ever live in BCN, and I couldn’t; it’s not for me.
Other Spanish cities I’m not big on? Santander, Zaragoza, Malaga (not the province, just the capital).
HI Cat, I had more or less the same experience when I was in Barcelona 6 years ago.
And I never felt truly safe there at night. Not sure why. Funny story, a friend from Madrid came to meet me in Barcelona and we actually had to leave a restaurant we were going to try because it was in French, English, and Catalan, but not Spanish! She was highly offended.
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Linguistic heritage is important, but things like this irk me! Catalan is a co-official language, but Castillian Spanish is considered an official language. And you make a point with the low-lit city at night, especially around El Raval and Las Ramblas – I once asked another American guy to walk a friend and I home because we were being followed by two dudes offering us drugs.
I have these same feelings about Madrid. I’ve tried (really tried) to like it but just can’t. I’ve had a few bad experiences there and can’t see past them. I’ve traveled through most of Spain and love most places I go but get depressed every time I have to go through or around Madrid. However, I do love Barcelona. It’s never done me wrong!
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There you have it! I think that because Spain is SO diverse, there’s something for everyone. I consider Madrid as the only place I would live outside of Andalusia, and it may happen with Kike’s job in a few years!
I’ve had way too many strange and scary experiences in Barcelona. Not my favorite! I always feel on-edge there.
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I feel the same, Nicole. I usually feel safe (I also have a razor-sharp tongue in Spanish) in the whole country, but Barcelona felt different. And I am DEFINITELY going to check out those muffins – it’s like a solid corba soup!
I returned to Bali after a two-year break and liked it a lot more the second time around. That said, I’d not want to spend the rest of my life there as a bule (gringa) among Asians.
As for Spain, what I’ve seen thus far has been limited to the Costa Brava and cities like Girona, Barcelona and Madrid. Nice, but tiring. It would be nice to visit other parts of the country where I wouldn’t be hit in the face by the independence issue at every turn….
And after all that drama in Bali! I’ve been to BCN four times, and under different circumstances each time – from student to backpacker, with friends and with family. I LOVED the Merce festival and wish I wrote about it on my blog five years ago, and have had nice moments in Barcelona. What’s more, the architecture is stunning and the countryside, incredible. The indeendence issue has long turned me off: Like Kaley says, DO IT or DON’T, we’re tired of hearing about it!
And you and D always have a place in Seville, so come visit!
I have to admit I’m not too into Madrid! I feel like it tries to be every part of Spain, and in doing so, has no personality. I feel bad telling this to people who have only been to Madrid, but hey, Spain has a lot to offer! And Madrid is only one city, not the end all be all. The Prado is pretty cool though.
Agreed, in a way. I like Madrid because I have loads of friends there! But what you say about the fact that Madrid is just ONE city is completely true! I think it’s difficult to know Spain without seeing more than Madrid, Barcelona and Seville. Thanks for commenting, Christy!
Yes! Name dropped! And in the best possible context. You are also no stranger to third and fourth chances, so Barcelona must’ve REALLY screwed up big.
Not screwed up so much as not lived up to my expectations. You know me…
I just wish the independence thing would go away. Do it, or don’t do it. I do not care… As far as the soccer league goes, we all want to have our cake and eat it too!
I’m not a fan of the big cities, like I said on Facebook. Sorry, I’ll stay with my small-town Castila y León any day. I could see myself in Sevilla too; I really enjoyed my visit there.
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I am past caring, too!
CyL is a place that will forever be in my heart. THAT is Spain to me. When I rolled up to Campo Grande at Christmas, I felt home.
Pase un finde na mas en Barcelona….
Masses of hookers on La Rambla at night, being chased and threatened by foreign men who didn’t understand “NO”, people snorting coke in the bathroom of nearly every nightclub we went to, horrible hostile “hostel room-mates”… it was only the fact that I had great travel buddies that made this a somewhat enjoyable experience. However I have to say, the weird and fascinating mix of gothic with modern Gaudi architecture was the perfect setting for an equally dark yet surreal “trip”….
I almost went that weekend with you guys! There definitely seems to be a darker side to Barcelona, and it’s got little to do with the light!
You’re not the only one. I visited there in 2005, I ended up there three separate times – once as a destination, and twice on the way to other places. The city gave me the creeps, honestly. From the beer-selling guys harassing us on the street at night, to our questionable hostel on Las Ramblas, to eating Mcdonald’s and KFC multiple times in a short span, to my friend being mugged in the airport, I really don’t have a lot of positive memories of my visit. Yes, Parc Guell was cool and the architecture, but I wasn’t feeling it and I don’t plan to go back to visit again.
I’ve tried four times and am just iffy. Certain memories stick out as happy and fun, but overall, it doesn’t do it for me. Thanks for putting in your two cents, D!
I visited Barcelona while studying abroad in Malaga, and while I liked certain parts of the city, I didn’t love it as a whole either. I haven’t had a chance to give it another go though, so my ultimate decision is still in the air.
Thank goodness, I was beginning to think I was the only one.
Going to Barcelona next weekend for a “proper” visit so I’ll have to come back here and let you know what I think but you are spot on with a lot of your feelings about BCN—the whole independence issue seems just waaay overblown, especially since under the current constitution, regional issues like language and culture have never been better. Also, I think a lot of the recent nationalistic brouhaha is a cover for monetary problems that could probably be resolved by fiscal independence like (from what I hear) the Basque Country has. Culturally, for the one day I was there in December, the city felt 100% Spanish—I noticed more of a cultural difference crossing the border from Spain into France via the TRAIN than I did touring Barcelona on my feet. Oy. ‘amo’ a ve’ as they say here down south…
One city that I have given a second chance is the provincial capital of Jaén in eastern Andalucía. My initial impressions were skewed probably because of my first few visits’ purpose: bureaucracy, both for NIE stuff and the language assistant program’s orientation. Additionally, the city isn’t very pretty, at all (okay it’s pretty *ugly*) and it doesn’t have much to say for itself in terms of tourism.
However, I have gone back once or twice and I think the city has started to grow on me after I wandered through the winding streets of the western side of town, hiked to the foothills of the mountain and saw the lay of the land, and indulged in huge, tasty, free tapas. Safe to say, I’m actually excited to go back to Jaén capital in the spring to renew my NIE.
Interesting, Trevor! I am so turned off by the independence movement because it caused a lot of ruckus when I was there (closing down the city center during Christmas?!), and it’s just started to ware on my nerves. And don’t talk to me about financial business – I paid them a lot more for my master’s than I would have for doing one in Andalusia! The UAB has a great reputation, and I paid for it!
Ummmm we might need to break up now. Barcelona is like my favorite city in the world!!!!! But well, I feel this way about London! PS I could never break up with you.
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You never would! And There is so, so much to Spain, which is the point I want to make. Barcelona is only one part of an interesting country.
these morons who bash barcelona have been brainwashed by the jealous n scummy madrid people who arent the true spaniards u chin droolin fooled fools
Outraged Basque, I’ve traveled to every comunidad, have lived in three different places in Spain (Valladolid, Seville and Coruna) and am studying at a Catalan University. What’s more, I’ve visited BCN as a student in 2005, with my grandma in 2007 during the Merce, with friends in 2010 and with my family in 2012. It’s a city that hasn’t surprised me, lived up to my expectations, or that I could see myself spending an extended amount of time in. That’s my conclusion after eight years, but I leave everyone their own opinion, brainwashed or not.
Isn’t there a difference between bashing and criticizing? I mean, I don’t think Cat bashed BCN. Maybe some of the commenters.
I live in Madrid — and I’m not brainwashed by madrileños to prefer their city.
Who are the TRUE Spaniards, anyway? I’m curious.
Kaley [Y Mucho Más] recently posted..“English” Words Spaniards Use
Oh wow, this is definitely interesting. Most people are gaga for Barcelona! It is almost the stereotypical city Americans pick when asked what is their favorite city outside the US (apart from London and Paris, which also tend to be pretty standard). I’ve only been to Barcelona once, for a short weekend. I remember really liking it when I visited, but I was pretty much a nonstop tourist for those two days. Put me there for a week, and my answer might be really different. I also remember hearing A LOT of English on the streets while I lived in Barcelona–which is kind of counterproductive to learning Spanish. Also the Catalan thing would probably drive me up the wall–I have no desire or need to learn Catalan!
I didn’t really like Berlin or Vienna when I visited both cities, which again are two places that always get rave reviews. I feel like I need to give Berlin another go, but I’m okay with not running back to Vienna for awhile!
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Spot on! I do love Paris and Berlin, but am totes iffy on London and Barcelona. Cada persona es un mundo…and there is definitely no shortage of things to do in Barcelona! But 21 euros for seeing a few rooms in the Casa Battlo? COMO!?
I also am not a fan. I am very into Old-World Spain, and Barcelona felt too…modern for me. There just wasn’t anything about the city that clicked. I went in March when it was still cold, and it was kind of dreary and I stayed in a horrible hostel so that might have had something to do with it.
Then, three years ago when that volcano in Iceland erupted, my flight from Paris-Madrid was canceled and we had to fly Paris-Barcelona (long story). Landed at about 1 AM and literally had to sit outside of the train station in Barcelona for three hours until it opened. It was cold and wet and very sketchy. Not a great memory either.
I want to give it another try, eventually, hopefully under better circumstances
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My friend was in the same situation, but took the 17-hr bus ride ew!
Haha we almost had to do that! Luckily my friend and I went to speak to a woman in the ticket window at Beauvias and BEGGED her to let us onto the ONE flight to Barcelona (it was a lottery system, they ‘randomly’ picked stranded people to let onto the flight). We had finals in Granada the next day, and pleaded with her.
It actually worked–we both got on the flight to Barca (there were only 21 spots!) That part was good; sitting outside the train station in Barca, in the cold, with the crack addicts, was not…
This just reminded me that I never wrote about that experience on my blog…..I ought to….
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I would love to read it! I have so many untold stories from the last five years!
I enjoyed Barcelona, but I agree that it is too busy. I can’t remember what we ate there besides tapas, but that was good and the waiter at BaBaReeBa was very helpful. We ended up going back a few times. He made it enjoyable by visiting with us and explaining what all of the foods were. But, there are other cities in Spain that I prefer, like Granada. My second chance city would have to be Munich. It’s packed with history and interesting places. And good beer (if that’s your thing, it’s not mine). But, something about the attitude of the people the few times I’ve been there put me off. The first time in the 90s, I got trapped between the crowd and the door of the train on the u-bahn. The second time (last year) yelled at by a street musician for not giving him enough money. Craziness! My mother-in-law wishes I thought better about her hometown
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I always have to bite my tongue when people say they don’t love Seville, but realize that it offers something different for everyone like any other city. Munich is on my list – I’ve been to Cologne twice and Berlin.
I’ve only been to BCN once and enjoyed it but didn’t fall in love. I felt a very dark side to the city that seems to be imprinted in my memories, more than other places. Let’s face it, most big cities have an underground side… (maybe that’s because I was walking on the rambla at 2am and all the beer sellers and prostitutes, made me see the city differently).
I think it’s ok not to like a place. We have connections to some places and in others it doesn’t feel right. No biggie.
Right now, Istanbul seems to be de moda but I could take it or leave it.
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I agree with you on a lot of the points, actually (even though you know I love Barna!). El Born is hit or really, really miss for restaurants; the bad ones are terrible, extremely overpriced tourist traps (but look legit). The Catalan language barrier can definitely be frustrating. And I’ve gotta say, it’s definitely the sketchiest place I’ve been in Spain. I even got followed home once!
Haha I think it’s funny you feel this way about Barcelona because that’s how I feel about Sevilla.
It’s got beautiful parts but it doesn’t just charm me, especially after having so many highly negative experiences there. I lived there and visited, but nothing could get rid of the “That’s it?” feeling I had. Add in the bad memories, and I know I’ll never feel fondly about the place – perhaps a bit like your Barcelona experience.
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You’re not alone in having studied in Seville and not liking it – my friend M won’t even come visit! People are different and people like different things. I tried to give BCN a chance and asked loads of bloggers and residents for suggestions. My friend Francesca told me it may be one of those places I have to live in to really love, just like Graham in Spain wrote about his first few months.
Vaya, this entry having 50+ comments means you’ve struck a nerve or two!
I was in Barcelona for a measly 2 or 3 days several years ago and don’t remember much apart from being impressed by La Sagrada Familia. I’ve got a trip to this city coming up in May, and after that I’ll be able to answer the question you pose in the title. Thanks for being as honest as ever, Cat!
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wow, quite a lot of responses to this one!! I’m on the “like Barcelona” side although I agree with an earlier poster that I felt uneasy there. I think I just read too many travel sites before we went that it made me feel that way? That said, I really enjoyed our brief 2.5 day visit there and can’t wait to go back and see more!! But given the choice between Barcelona and Madrid, which seems to be a popular topic, I’d pick Madrid ANY day. as you know, I spent my junior year there and well, I just have too many fond memories to like any other Spanish city better. Although Málaga is a close second with Sevilla close behind that….
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Good honest post Cat!
I’ve visited Barca on three occasions now and have to admit i’ve thoroughly enjoyed myself each time. However, I went alone and went at my own pace so may not have had the added pressure of being a host/guide for the weekend like you might have had with your family..?
Anyway, I’m considering a move from Granada next year and Barca is tempting me. I just love the city lifestyle. That said the price tag on general living costs is slightly off-putting and i’m wary of the whole Catalan language barrier/anti-spain vibe. We shall see…
My parents had little to do with it, honestly – I’ve now been twice with family, twice with friends, and one of those times during the city festival. But if it’s your bag, go!!
So…I’m taking the trenhotel up to Barcelona this evening but, to be honest, I’m probably only spending half my time this weekend actually in the city; I’m running away south to Tarragona and north to Figueres & Gerona on two days
I’m looking forward to the architecture and Montjuïc (Sigur Rós concert!!!!!!!!!) but at the same time, I think it says a lot in support of your post that half of my “Barcelona” city trip will be spent elsewhere in Cataluña. 
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For what it’s worth, here’s our top five Spanish cities visited (most on more than one occasion):
1. Valencia
2 Granada
3. Seville
4. Madrid
5. Barcelona
I’m not a big fan of Valencia, either! I actually think I just like Andalusia a little too much (even for my own good!)
Personally, I loved Barcelona, but to be honest I don’t have that many Spanish cities to compare it too. Sitting on the beach in the evening having a drink, or just walking and getting lost was awesome. I also loved the botanical gardens and the Parc Guell. I just could have done without Las Ramblas because they were way too crowded and touristy. When it comes to architecture, Barcelona is a dream! =)
A city that I didn’t like all that much (and I doubt that a second impression would be better) is Los Angeles. It was a nightmare. Yuck, one of the worst cities I have ever been too – but probably I’m the only one who sees it that way
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I am agreed on the architecture, and think it’s definitely got some beauty to even the gritty parts. Still, I’ve been in Spain long enough that I’m mentally Andalusian, so I don’t think I’d enjoy Barcelona much!
My friend…I was seeking for some informations about the city on internet when I found your website, and let me say that was funny, cause I am exactly with the same impressions!
Guess I’ m not anymore the only person in the world who didn’t like Barcelona.
Like you I have travelled many miles since I left Brazil, with very high expectations, and now, I just want to move to back to Portugal.
First of all, I have to say to my mother that I can’t understand many things because the “catalan” is usedi instead of the “castellano”.
Second, the reality is that the cuisine here is poor of options and expensive.
Third, I love architecture and history this were one of the reason I choose Barcelona, but the tickets to visit the touristics points are extremly high, for exemple, to visit ” La casa Batlo” you have to spend something like €22!!!!
Next, They are really full of contradictions, and they will try to convince you that they’ re not spanish, even if they still play the BBVA
Thanks for weighing in, Gabriel! I’ve tried hard to like Barcelona for the sake of my travel companions, but the reality is that it’s a city that just does’t do it for me!