A trip to the Pomegranate

My dentist, Dr. Clinton, is the type that has pictures of his kids right in front of the chair, so I get cavities filled looking at all of them. There’s no shortage of years-old People magazines that one can enjoy while listening to Muzak, and Carol, the hygienic, chats you up while sticking instruments in your mouth.

The only reason I don’t dread the dentist’s office is because of Dr. Clinton’s obsession with Spain (ok, and Wally’s milkshakes next door). More specifically, he loves Granada, a city he has a vacation flat in and returns to once a year.

A mid-sized university city, Granada was the last stronghold of the Moorish Al-Andalus kingdom, which fell to the Christians in 1492 (same year Columbus claimed the Americas for Spain. Big year, I’d say). Nowadays, it’s famous for free tapas and majestic Moorish palace, the Alhambra, which stands high above the city.

My best friend in the whole world finally made it to Spain, and there was only one weekend trip I would allow. Not Madrid’s museums, not Gaudi’s Barcelona. I took her to the Pomegranate, one of the most beautiful places in the south. I think she and Dr. Clinton have some words to exchange.

The streets shooting off Plaza Bim-Rambla, near the Cathedral
Frederico Garcia Lorca, Granada’s prodigal son, shot during the early days of the Spanish Civil War 
A study on Moorish arches: The Alhambra
The Lion Court, considered the most intricate and complete example of Moorish art in the world
Sewer cap: the pomegranate city
Give him money, woman, as there is no greater injustice in life than being blind in Granada
Gypsies at the Mirador de San Nicolas, Barrio Albacin
Graffiti that characterizes this southern city

Out on my Own in Spain

Well, it´s here. Helen left at 4:45 this morning to catch a plane to Madrid to London to LA, leaving me to fend for myself. Heaving my 20 kilo (aka 45 lb) pack onto my back, I took bus #10 to my new hotel, more or less, despite getting lost in what was kind of ghetto. The hotel is four stars with a VERY cute desk attendant (did I mention how gorgeous Spanish men are?!). From there, I had to catch two more buses to go to Carrefour, like a Walmart, to buy a comforter and sheets since I won´t be in Seville until VERY late tomorrow and more shampoo and toothpaste. Then, I figured I needed a cell phone and the only place in the mall complex was Movistar. So I now have a movistar number! if you need to call me, the number is: 34 646580518. You dial the 011 prefix before that to call to Spain from the US.

The last few days have been extremely relaxing and wonderful. From Toledo, we came down to Granada and the hostal lost our reservation, so we walked around for a while and tried to find an empty couple of beds on a saturday night after midnight. Not fun with a heavy pack. The following day was gorgeous in Granada – 24º and sunny. We took our time eating lunch before heading up to the Alhambra. I forgot just how stunning it all is – the Nasarid art, the views of the Sierra Nevada and the pubelos blancos and the gardens of the Generalife. We found a super fancy four star hotel to eat at. I chose gazpacho and veal from Avila. Half a bottle of wine later, we went to this really intimate flamenco place in a cave where only one singer, one dancer and one guitarist were playing. Though it was extremely crowded, I could watch the shadow of the dancer on the wall and her facial expressions. They were passionate and almost anguished. Her feet moved about a thousand miles a minute. It was intense. Spain is a passionate country – everyone argues their point and has an intense love for La Patria. Ask any Spaniard what his or favorite city is, and they will undoubtedly tell you the very one you are in. It never fails.

I have my orientation course tonight at a fancy hotel. I’ll head back to Seville late tomorrow and report at 1030h on Wednesday to IES Heliche to meet the other teachers. I really am happy I’m starting. Last night I met a girl at the flamenco cave named Erin. She’s been in Malaga for the past nine months, having met a Spaniard two years ago on the Camino de Santiago. They’re getting married this weekend. She told me this experience will undoubtedly change my life.

The first visit here certainly did, or else I wouldn´t have moved seven time zones away. I can´t wait to get to Sevilla and really settle in.

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