Seville Snapshots: El Peñón de Ifach

Round the N-332, I caught my first glimpse of the dramatic Peñón de Ifach. In all of the research I’d done on Calpe, the 332-meter high rock face seemed to loom everywhere – and we found that to be true once we’d settled into this sleepy fisherman’s town on the brink of touristic glory. Our hotel room at the Hotel Solymar had sweeping vistas of the bay and of the rock, we sailed around it on a catamaran and tasted paellas and fidueas in its shadow in the afternoon. Its size and sturdiness meant that Sunday’s paddle surf lesson would be on calm waters.

It’s the Giralda of Calpe, its most recognizable symbol.

Ifach, pronounced Ee-fahk, is nowadays a bird and wildlife refuge, a last little hiccup of the Cordillería Betica that stretches across much of Andalucía and Murcia. You can visit the Peñón daily from sun up to sun down, and well-marked trails and climbing are available.

Author’s note: I was a guest of the Calpe Tourism Board on their annual blog trip and digital media conference, #Calpemocion, and will be reporting for The Spain Scoop. All opinions are my own because, ya sabéis, I like to give them.

Preparing for the Camino: Why I’m Walking

Muuuuyyyyyy bien chicos! Raquel’s morning greeting was accompanied with a slurp and the decapitation of the top quarter of Spain. “El Camino de Santiago is today’s topic.”

I dutifully took out my notebook, etching the bull’s hide of Spain and marking the end of the pilgrimmage across the top of Spain with a star. As Raquel recounted her experience walking a month across age-old trails between drags on a cigarette, I’d been imagining a return to Spain one day to walk the Way to Santiago de Compostela.

During my 2012 trip, I ran into some of my old students from IES Heliche. All roads may lead to Rome, but quite a few lead to Santiago, too!

Galicia, the region in which Santiago is located, is like my second home in Spain. On half a dozen occasions, I’ve laid my eyes on its sprawling cathedral, watched backpackers with no common language embrace in the sacred Plaza do Obradoiro, smelt the mix of incense and sweat left by peregrinos as I’ve hugged the bejeweled bust of St. James, the patron saint of Spain. I’ve even spent the Xacobeo, the Holy Years in which St. James’s Day falls on a Sunday, partying until dawn in the sacred city. The Camino has been part of my Spain bucket list since that sweltering day in June when Raquel first talked about it.

Jesus, my friend James and the Patrón himself in front of the Catedral de Santiago in 2010, a Holy Year

While many legends exist about its origins, perhaps the most common story is the one in which St. James, one of Jesus’s disciples, had his remains placed in a boat from Jerusalem. The saint was covered in conch shells and barnacles when his boat washed up on the northwest coast of Spain, and the remains were subsequently buried. Centuries later, a shepherd claims to have seen a cluster of stars in a field at night over the reputed tomb of the saint, and King Alfonso II ordered a massive cathedral to be built in that very place. For the last milenia, hundreds of thousands of pilgrims have descended on the city – now a major tourist draw and intellectual center – believing that completing at least the last 100 kilometers on foot brings pleneray indulgence. This route is called la Ruta Xacobea in local galego, or the Camino de Santiago in Castellano. To me, its one name, El Camino, holds a world of meaning.

The Camino is the subject of numerous books and films, and ever since its first inference, I’ve read many of them. Paulo Coehlo’s  The Pilgrammage, Field of Stars by Kevin Codd, A Journey of Days by Guy Thatcher all stick out in my mind, and a flight home from Spain in 2011 had me watching Emilio Estevez’s poignant film, The Way.

After years of wishing, planning and reading loads of books on the Camino, I’ve finally made plans to go. My hiking boots and trail bag are purchased, our route has been carefully outlined in red from Gijón to Santiago de Compostela. Towards the end of July, Hayley and I will set out from Asturias, rumbo Santiago. The Northern Route, called the Ruta del Norte, is less-traveled, more physically straining and supposedly breathtaking, as the majority of our first week will be along the coast before taking the Primitivo route until we reach the end of our trek.

People walk for many reasons – for spiritual reasons, for a journey of self-discovery, for the sport and adventure of it all. But I’m not walking just for me and a goal eight years in the making. I’ve decided to walk two weeks on the Camino de Santiago For the Kids – to raise money for the University of Iowa Hospitals and Clinics, an organization that has been important to me for nearly ten years.

As a college student, I would only pull an all-nighter once a year, during the annual Dance Marathon. During a full day, I could not sleep, sit or drink alcohol, an this was after raising a minimum of $425 to even get in the door. For an entire day, we’d put our bodies through hell to feel some sort of what kids and their families felt.

Coupled with bi-weekly visits to the hospital’s Child Life center and numerous leadership positions, I was hooked on helping and creating tomorrow by dancing today. When I became a Morale Captain in 2005, I was assigned a family to sponsor. The Lees were coping with Kelsey’s recent diagnosis of leukemia, a side effect of the chemo she’d received earlier in the year. We began to exchange emails and phone calls, excited to meet one another at the Big Event in February, 2006. Kelsey was only 14 years old and already fighting cancer for the second time.

After repping the Lees for two years, she was passed onto another sorority sister, but stayed in the family – literally –  a sister from two pledge classes above me’s father married into Kelsey’s. Even when I moved across the charca, we kept in touch through Facebook, postcards and Skype. Invitations for her high school and technical graduation got sent to my parents’s house, along with a yearly Luau-themed fundraiser her family held in their town. Kelsey felt like a cousin to me, so I was crushed when I learned she’d relapsed once again.

“You’re so much braver than anyone I know,” she wrote me in an email just before Christmas 2011 as I was preparing to visit my family in Arizona. “I really have to come visit you in Spain to see why it is you’re still there.” I promised to call her once she was out of surgery for some build-up in fluids around her lungs, an effect of her treatment.

The following day, she passed away. Her mother sent me a text message that I read, hysterical, in the Philadelphia International Airport as I boarded a Madrid-bound plane. Attempts to organize a mini-Dance Marathon at my old school never materialized, but I donated part of my severance package to Dance Marathon in Kelsey’s name and joined the Iowa Bone Marrow Donors Network. As Hayley and I made preliminary plans for this summer, I contact the UIDM’s sponsorship and business directors, setting up a donation page and walking in memory of Kelsey and all of the other families coping.

2013 has really been my year, between a promotion, getting my European driver’s license and (fingers crossed) obtaining my master’s degree. Things may be coming up roses for me, but I realize that this year has been tough on many of my loved ones. That said, I want to raise awareness of the numerous Dance Marathons that are emotionally and financially supporting families afflicted with childhood cancer, as well as trying to raise $500 – 100% of which will go to the University of Iowa Dance Marathon. My pilgrim conch shell will be accompanied by the leis Kelsey and I wore during the Big Events we spent together, my name-tags from when I was on the leadership team, and lime green letters FTK – For the Kids.

Please consider a tax-deductible donation to the University of Iowa Dance Marathon to keep Creating Tomorrow by Dancing Today, and follow me at #CaminoFTK on twitter and instagram.

And many thanks to my sponsors, without whom this Camino would not be possible.

Interested in helping me complete the Camino For the Kids? Please contact me for sponsorship opportunities or check out my Camino Pinterest board for inspiration!

 

Seville Snapshots: Cat at the Alcazaba, Almería

With beautiful vistas of the sea with a sharp red desert contrast the background in which lies the city of Almería. It may not be the most picturesque city in Andalucía but it has a few unexpected gems: the sea, you choose free tapas and treasures from Moorish rule, including the Alcazaba of Almería. Second biggest fortress, the alcazaba, was built by the Moors during their rule in Spain, though the Alhambra of Granada takes the grand prize. Most  don’t know about the Alcazaba but it’s certainly worth a visit if you’re in the area.

While roaming and snapping my way through the fortress, I seized the opportunity to capture the one of the essences of the past that still remain – cats that seem to remind us who once inhabited this place amidst the backdrop of ruins.

Lauren David writes at Roamingtheworld, which began in 2007 when she set off with a one-way ticket to travel from Eastern to Southern Africa solo. Nine months later, she accomplished a dream and stayed put in the San Francisco area until she got itchy feet 3 years later and moved to Andalucía, Spain in 2011. She’s traded sunny skies, free tapas for picturesque landscapes and occasional snowstorms in Basque country. Her blog is about life as an expat, travels, food, and the unexpected. Visit her atRoamingtheworld and follow her on Facebook.

It’s all Greek to Me: A Case for All Inclusive Holidays in Greece

I’m worn out. Like, really worn out. This year a new job, a master’s program and planning my next big move has left me with grey hairs (yes! Scary!), so I’m looking forward to walking to the Camino de Santiago and having the better part of August to relax.

Wait, relax? Not a word I often use. In fact, having twenty days of vacation during a dead month in Seville has me looking for something cheap and exhilirating to do, and I keep getting pulled in one direction: the country where it all started.

Some type of all inclusive holidays in Greece could be just what I need. I’m usually a DIY traveler, but between trips to Croatia, La Rioja and Italy in the past five months, I’m a little tuckered out. I quite like the idea of just relaxing somewhere near the water and not having to worry about finding a place to eat, a place to stay or things to do.

Whether you want to book a last minute deal or look a little further in advance at a summer getaway, all-inclusive Greece holidays have the ideal climate for those who love to travel from May to October. I had the opporunity to nab an all-inclusive package in Ibiza in 2005 and saved probably hundreds of euros at the height of tourist season, having my food and beverage paid for, along with airport drop-off, a pristine pool and even discounts to the nightclubs that have made the small island a top party destination.

As well as mainland resorts, such as the up and coming hot spot Halkidiki, Greece is known for its vast range of breathtaking islands. Kos, Rhodes, Crete and Corfu, are four of the most popular islands and of gran renombre, while Skiathos and Santorini offer a more laid back vibe, much like some of my favorite beaches in Cádiz like Los Caños or Zahara. I’ve never been to the islands in Greece, and they’re high on my list. For real, why wouldn’t they be:

Approximately four hours from the UK or Spain, the flight time is manageable with families – just don’t try and take your sunscreen in your carry on like I did a few years back! Temperatures can be as high as 35°C in Crete during the height of summer, though I remember most hotels having enormous pools open, even in the center of Athens.

Although Hellas was once known for predominantly offering self catering stints, the rise of luxury accommodation has seen an increase in the number of all inclusive holidays in Greece. Vacations of this type have made the destination more suited to families, offering a more cost effective and convenient holidaying option.

All inclusive holidays in Greece do differ depending on your hotel choice – however, as standard, you can expect three meals per day, snacks and local alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. Entertainment facilities are typically diverse, with many complexes offering kids clubs, mini discos and early-evening productions (foam party if ya lucky!).

If you’re looking to go inland, I have fond memories of visiting the archaelogical sites around Athens and the olive groves beyond them that are home to the foundations of modern society – Delphi, Mycennae and Epidaurus. If only I had photos of 15-year-old me in Greece to add.

OH WAIT. Don’t say I never gave you a good laugh.

I’m also considering a road trip around Germany or the Balearic Islands, now that I have my driver’s license. Where would you go, or have you already made plans for your summer break?

The Lighter Side of Magaluf, Mallorca

Spain has a funny way of calling its recent economic downturn, especially with regards to its near crucifiction of tourism, despite being an industry that’s actually thriving. They call it the ni-ni, Spanish for neither…nor. In the case of travel, the nail in the coffin could be the fact that many of the packaged deals and the weekend getaways seem to disappear during the winter months, despite a fully operational town. There’s definitely a surge in tourists to Seville from March until October, even though the city is visitable year round.

I often get requests for suggesting trip itineraries around Southern Spain. With its beaches, architecture and gastronomic delights, Andalusia is seemingly full of options at any time of year, though resorts and tour operators are making a push already for the impending school holidays. Even more popular are the coasts and islands, particularly in the Costa del Sola and Baleares. Most workers in Spain have the entire month of August off, meaning cities are empty and beaches, filled to the brim (vale, to the orilla). I’ll be here all of August, and while I’ve considered Germany or driving my new car to Jaen for a few days, I can’t help but want to escape to the beach.

My only trip to the Baleares was a wild weekend in Ibiza with some friends while studying abroad. The islands become a mecca for party-goers who beach-hop by day after a night of jaleo and revelry. I’ve often been asked about family friendly destinations around Spain and think that many cities offer up options for the kiddos, including party-hardy Magaluf. This seaside village on Mallorca has a bit of a reputation as a party resort, blighted by excess drinking and bad behavior on the part of some of its visitors and its warnings from the British Tourism Board, though there are plenty of things to do before the parties heat up. What’s more, the city is renovated old spaces and working to attract visitors at more quiet times of the year, so now is the perfect occasion to visit.

A must-do for families in Magaluf is the Western Water Park, a Wild West themed water park, featuring scary steep water rides as well as gentler, shallower rides and wave pools for younger children. Three times a day the park puts on a diving show featuring up to three divers who perform in unison from up to 30 metres high! The water park is immense and it can easily take up a whole day, providing a great alternative to the playita. Buy your tickets online to save money, and be aware that the park is closed during the winter season.

The House of Katmandu is an upside-down Tibetan house that distorts reality for those exploring the interior. With distances improbably lengthened or shortened, unlikely optical illusions and wonderfully creative robotics this is an attraction sure to appeal to everyone. Recently the House of Katmandu has joined forces with a large hotel chain to create Katmandu Park, a combination hotel and theme park where guests can shoot out with desperadoes, play a round of mini golf or relax in their suite. Pedro Vaquer Ramis, 9. 07181 Magaluf. Closed November – February.

Magaluf was designed to cater for the needs and wants of visitors, so there is no shortage of restaurants, activities rentals and excursions. If water activities are overdone or you’re looking to not get burnt like I do, you can go-kart at Karting Magaluf, or enjoy shopping after a day in Magaluf’s sandy beaches or treat the family to a great meal out in the city center. Carretera de la Porrasa, s/n, Magaluf, Calviá, open year-round.There is also The Pirates Adventure, a dinner show that will make you forget about eating as you watch skilled acrobats and performers juggle, dance and perform gymnastic feats with a casual insouciance that belies the danger that comes with somersaulting, twisting and flying through the air meters above the ground! Camí Porrassa, 12  07181 Magaluf. Prices are 40€ for kids, 64€ for their parents.

Nikki Beach is the pinnacle of Magaluf style and sultry glamour, so leave the kiddies with a sitter and spend the day sunbathing alongside bronzed beauties, eating well and enjoying performers and DJs. The place also becomes a beach side club when the sun goes down, and it’s a good place to spot local celebrities and even vacationing stars (the Royal family won’t be there, but they holiday on Mallorca, and Rafa Nadal calls the island home). Avenida Notario Alemany 1,
Calvia, Palma de Mallorca, Baleares. The soft opening is scheduled for April 25th, with weekend openings for dinner and cocktails, whereas the big opening will take place on June 6th.

Magaluf is working on re-branding itself to be more family oriented, so now is a great time to consider a trip while on the island. Flights into and out of Malaga’s Airport are plentiful, especially to destinations in Northern Europe and the Spanish peninsula. Ferries are also available if you’re interested in bringing your car, especially from ports along the Costa Dorada. The town is a mere 18km away from the capital, Las Palmas.

What’s your favorite family destination in Spain?

Camping on the Islas Ciès of Galicia

Julie and I had set out from Coruña after a two-day search for a tent. I have to admit that I’m much more of a luxury Spanish villa type of girl, but the prospect of camping on what has been called the Most Beautiful Beach in the World had me willing to sleep on the hard ground in the cold on the middle of an island in the Atlantic.

Oh, I’m also a mountain girl, for the record.

When my pulpo-guzzling, beach-loving friend mentioned the Islas Ciès, a small archipelago whose only residents are seagulls, I wasn’t immediately keen. Her father’s house on the port of nearby La Coruna was as close as I needed to get to the water because I am a chicken (tuna?) when it comes to getting my hair wet and swimming in the ocean.

The following week, we were on a ferry from Vigo, Spain to Cangas across the river mouth and onto Playa de Rodas with little more than our swimsuits, a towel and some snacks.

The boat docked in front of a small bar and restaurant 40 minutes later. The archipelago is comprised of three mountainous islands, the two northernmost joined together by a sandy bar and jagged rocks. Playa de Rodas, which the Guardian UK called “The Most Beautiful Beach in the World” the year earlier, was nestled between the two, idyllic and blocked from the harsh atlantic waters on the other side of the islands.

Not three minutes after we’d waded from the boat onto dry land, we’d already stripped off all of our clothes. Out came the towels and reading material, the plastic bottles of tinto de verano and all of my qualms about having gone to the beach in the first place.

We spent the rest of the day exploring smaller, beaches tucked away in small, rocky coves and paths that lead up the crags and to clandestine lighthouses. The crescent of white sand was dotted with colorful umbrellas and beach babies, while the bay was full of small yachts bobbing gently against the tide. The squalls off the Atlantic are broken up over the craggy rocks, meaning we had a day of glittering sunshine and occasional breezes.

My phone rang. The campsite had been calling me all day, but our lack of a tent meant we were going to have to slip in after the sunset and find a bar spot of land in between the packed-in tents and call it a night. While we watched the sun sink down behind the ocean, I hatched a plan.

We walked over to the bar on the island, ordered two beers and a plate of fried squid legs and I asked to speak to the owner. I explained that we had been robbed when we fell asleep on the train, and that our tent has been stolen. He told us there were no physical structures on the island, save the bar/supermarket, the lighthouses and the park warden’s cabin. He promised to try and find a few blankets.

Julie and I huddled together for warmth, splitting the last few sips of wine as we sat on a park bench, the lights from Vigo shimmering on the water. A voice came from behind us.

“Are you the girls who had their tent stolen?”

Turns out, the owner of the bar mentioned to the owners of the camping that we were the delinquents who hadn’t checked into the camping that afternoon. They sent their son to hunt us down. I figured we’d be facing some sort of fine, but the boy whose name but not sculpted biceps has long been forgotten invited us to his tent. Sunburnt and with sore muscles, Biceps had a tent with two rooms and a queen-sized bed for the two of us.

The following morning, we woke up with Biceps, who was off to man the camping himself. We unzipped the screen, letting the light breeze in as our bare feet dangled over the end of the mattress. The rest of our day was filled with hiking, random rendezvous with other sevillanos and a shaky ride back to the mainland, leaving behind the gorgeous stretch of beach.

If you go: The Islas Cies can only be reached by boat from Vigo, Cangas or Baiona. Prices and hours will vary, so confirm online. There’s just one place to stay overnight, the Camping Islas Cies (7,90 adults, 8,50 per tent). Reservations should be made before reaching the island through telephone or the website, and the campsite is open from March 1. There are basic facilities for washing up, a small supermarket and a restaurant, but anything you take onto the island must also be carried off.

This is my entry to the March 2013 Carnival of Europe hosted by DJ Yabis of  Dream Euro Trip with the theme “Beaches.”

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